The surface of the ocean has drawn the most intent attention of human beings from the very beginning of mankind's history. The breaking of large oceanic waves has an especially hypnotic effect on any ordinary man or woman observing this magnificent phenomenon. These natural processes have repeatedly been the themes in painting (see Plate 1), literature, and music. Very few—if any—people have remained indifferent to this manifestation of the greatness of nature. No less important are the oceanic wave breaking processes for scientific concepts and views in the study of the World Ocean as well.l